The Best Black Derby Shoes Make Your Sneakers Jealous

Sometimes, you need to ask more of your derbies. You need to put them through their paces beyond the air-conditioned, carpeted office building and to environs a little less manicured like gravel roads and, uh, your local park. A regular pair of leather-soled derbies aren’t built for all that, much less a rogue puddle. Instead opt for these trail-ready kicks from the British shoemakers at Sanders. They’re made from a waxy full-grain leather that will age gracefully over time and will shine up just as well should you need them for more formal situations.That premium leather sits atop a water-resistant Goodyear storm welt and a heavy-duty lugged sole to take on rough and rugged terrain.

I like to think of these as the upgrade to the Dr. Martens—better construction, better materials, easier to resole, can actually be dressed up, pricier. So if you’ve got the patience to save up the money, I’d go with these.

Best Black Derby for Menswear Nerds: Alden Cordovan Plain Toe Blucher

Sizes: 7-13 | Details: Goodyear storm welt construction, double leather sole, made in America

For every piece of menswear, there is an ultimate version of it. In this instance, it’s a pair of Alden shell cordovan plain toe bluchers. The leather itself comes from the thickest part of a horse (the rear-end!) which gives it a natural water resistance, sheen, and durability that menswear nerds geek out about. Compared to the more common cow leather, shell cordovan is thicker and tends to ripple rather than wrinkle. Combined with Alden’s long history of top-tier shoemaking, the Plain Toe Blucher has been elevated to end-game status for every menswear lover. It’s crafted in America using Goodyear welted construction, impeccable stitchwork, and the highest-end materials available.

The downsides? Shell cordovan is a beast to break in, not to mention prohibitively expensive. But I’ve had my pair for almost a decade without a need for repairs, so I don’t expect to need another replacement until I’m about ready to retire.

More Black Derbies We Love

Adieu Type 132 Derby

Thom Browne Calf Leather Uniform Derby

Solovair 3-Eye Gibson Shoe

Morjas Plain Toe Blucher

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