Madewell’s Vintage Tee Is as Good as It Gets

SHOP $45, madewell.com

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There’s nothing quite like the feeling of putting on a great T-shirt. It’s an instant mood-booster and a huge dose of confidence, especially for such a seemingly simple garment. But here’s the thing: The T-shirt isn’t all that simple. Not these days, when pretty much every version that your mind can conjure is just a few clicks away. It’s overwhelming. (See also: pants.)

You could explore everything from slinky, goth-y styles to super-boxy concoctions with sleeves that stretch past the elbow. Or you could take a cue from the classics and opt for something inspired by the best T-shirts from back in the day. And if you like your tees with an aura of old-school cool but don’t feel like spending an eye-watering amount of money to get it, Madewell’s Vintage Tee should absolutely be on your radar. In fact, it should be in your closet or dresser, too. Here’s why.

The fit is dead on.

According to the folks at Madewell, the design of this shirt was influenced by a deep dive into the vintage market. The team took the best of the best from way back when and put it all together in one garment that doesn’t require a long hunt through dusty thrift-store rack—and a huge helping of luck—to acquire. While that indeed seems to be the case, I get the feeling that they cherry-picked attributes just a little in order to land on something that feels less like a historical re-creation and more like a vintage-inspired piece that works exceptionally well for the current moment (more on that later). The higher neckline, shorter sleeves, and slightly cropped cut feel like they could have been pulled from some mid-century deadstock tee discovered in a long-forgotten storeroom. But the wider fit through the body—it verges on boxy but doesn’t go all the way into oversize territory—owes more to the ’80s and ’90s.

Put it all together and you’ve got a shirt that’s remarkably flattering for a variety of body types. It hugs the arms just enough to make it look like arm day is on the schedule, even when it isn’t. The higher crewneck creates a nice, clean drape over the torso. The wider fit doesn’t bunch around any bulges you may want to obscure. And the length—which might be a little short if you’re taller than 6’2″ or so—means it skims your hips but doesn’t gather on top of them making it look like you need to size down. A note on sizing, by the way: If you’re looking for that “classic” fit, you may want to go lower than usual (medium instead of large, for example). If you want a little extra room and a dropped shoulder, you can stick with your normal alpha size.

SHOP $45, madewell.com

The fabric is fantastic.

One common method of weight measurement for cotton is grams per square meter (gsm) of fabric. (You’ll also find ounces per square yard.) Most lightweight T-shirts hang around the mid-100’s when it comes to gsm. The real heavyweight stuff can weigh in at well over 300. At 230 grams per square meter, the fabric of the Vintage Tee is hefty, without a doubt, but not stiflingly so. You could wear it on a summer day, even with a light layer on top, without any real danger of overheating. But it’s also enough to stand up to a stiff breeze in the early autumn.

Madewell calls it “premium weight,” and though that is absolutely marketing speak, it’s also accurate. It feels pricey. Less “This is heavier because it’s functional” and more “This is heavier because it’s nicer.” It feels reassuring as it falls onto your shoulders, like it’ll last and continue to feel great as it ages. I’ve put mine through only a few rounds of washing—and I’m a stickler for hang-drying exclusively—but I can attest that thus far nothing has shrunk out of shape or started showing early signs of wear. Plus, it’s soft. Most heavier tees with the kind of structure I like can start to feel a little crunchy. Not so with the Vintage Tee. Even folks who prefer featherweight stuff for the feel of the fabric will find this cotton up to snuff.

SHOP $45, madewell.com

The right kind of “vintage.”

Remember when I said we’d get more into the vibe of the Vintage Tee later? Well, here we are. Because even though this shirt certainly draws from an amalgamation of throwback influences, I’d argue that its biggest benefit isn’t playing into some historicized costume but working remarkably well with all sorts of different iterations of the modern wardrobe. The looser cut is nicely proportionally balanced with straight-leg jeans and chinos and won’t make you look like one of those “tiny shirt, huge pants” people if you opt to wear it with baggy cargos or even something more directional, like balloon pants. (18 and Needles make good versions that aren’t too extreme). Hell, you could even wear it with slim—dare I say skinny?—pants and the lines wouldn’t look out of whack.

Plus, the higher neckline gives it just a little bit of extra polish, so you’re not limited to only the most casual side of your closet. I’ve found that this shirt—in the Dark Carob color, specifically—is a fantastic complement to relaxed sport coats in textured fabrics. Speaking of color options: The Soft White pairs nicely with a navy jacket, and if you’re dressing down, Faded Khaki looks great with the olive green of a field coat. Do I wish that Madewell would offer this tee in a true black as well as the current Almost Black on offer? As a stereotypical New Yorker whose closet can sometimes look like a glimpse into the abyss, yes. But dark navy and deep forest green are great alternatives and might just be pushing me toward an expanded color palette. Because right now, this is the T-shirt I keep reaching for again and again. And I think if you get one (or two, or four), you’ll be doing the exact same thing.

SHOP $45, madewell.com

Photographs by Joe Lingeman. Prop styling by Heather Greene.